The cultivation process begins in fall when the soil is still workable, usually between October and December. Just like any other root crop, the best bulbs develop in well-drained, friable garden loam. I usually amend with compost and add some bulb fertilizer (Bulb-tone is great!).

For planting, dig holes 3 to 6 inches deep and 12 to 16 inches apart. Set a single clove in each hole with the tip pointing upwards and the blunt root base down. Cover with soil, water and wait. Within a couple of weeks sprouts should rise from the soil and the plants reach a foot or more before heavy frost hits. They will overwinter in evergreen to semi-evergreen states where winters are mild but die back in colder zones.

I plant my garlic cloves to a depth of 4 inches where I live in Delaware then fertilize with bulb fertilizer.

From center to center, my garlic cloves are planted around 10 inches apart.

In spring, garlic plants will green and leaf up, and by late spring to early summer each will produce a heronesque flower or bulbil bud. The buds should be removed as soon as they appear or they’ll deplete the precious garlic bulbs underground. Just clip the stems back to the main plant, but don’t throw away the buds. They’re good eating and look and taste great stir fried or sautéed.

By late spring or early summer garlic plants will set buds, which should be removed before they open.

Garlic buds are very delicious to eat and should not be thrown away.

By midsummer or later (depending where you live), the leaves of mature garlic plants will begin to turn brown. Refrain from watering the plants at this time. When the tops are nearly dry and begin to bend down, the cloves are ready to harvest. Dig the bulbs and allow them to dry in an airy place away from sun. Drying technique depends on garlic type (see next paragraph). Soft-neck garlic can be hung to dry in braids, and the tops of hard-neck types can be cut and the bulbs dried on a dry, breathable surface. Store in a cool, dry place.

Choosing the right garlic for you depends on where you live and the flavor your favor. The key distinction between types is whether they are soft- or hard-necked. Soft-neck garlic is the most popular type grown in Europe and the American South. It grows better in milder climates (but will still grow well pretty far north), stores for longer, and has flexible necks that allow mature bulbs and plants to be easily braided into hanging garlic braids. There are two soft-neck forms, silverskin and artichoke. Silverskin soft-neck garlic has smooth, silvery skin, more cloves and keeps for a very long time. Artichoke has coarser skin, fewer, larger cloves and a milder flavor. Still, heat, pungency and flavor varies widely from cultivar to cultivar, so consider this when choosing garlic to grow .

The tops of hard-neck garlic should be cut an inch or two above the bulb and the bulbs allowed to dry after harvest.

Hard-neck garlic is more commonly grown in northern and eastern Europe, Russia and North-Central Asia. It grows better in cooler climates, has a shorter storage life and stiff necks that attach the bulbs to the main plants. This type produces fewer, larger cloves that are fragrant and vary in flavor depending on the cultivar. Hard-neck types are believed to be more closely related to wild-type garlic.

The rewards of growing garlic are great. Homegrown bulbs offer superior taste,  you can grow lots of different types that vary in flavor and the cost is cheaper if you cook with garlic often. If you've never tried growing garlic and you want to, order your cloves soon because novel varieties often sell out fast. They should arrive later in the growing season ready to plant.